Hard sayin' not knowin'. We don’t know how hard you work or what kind of dumb stuff you'll be doing in them. What we do know is that our gloves outlast hardware store gloves about 5 pairs to 1.
We can’t offer a guarantee because our gloves are a handmade wearable product. Eventually, by wear and tear or pterodactyl, they'll wear out. We take a lot of pride in what we do and we do it really well, so we want you to be satisfied. If you think you did not receive a good value from your gloves get in touch and we'll do what we can to make the situation right.
Sure do. Head on over here to learn how to initiate a repair.
A bit of occasional glove love goes a long way.
It depends how hard you run them and what you're doing but eventually your gloves will dry out and need an oil change. This is a good time to condition them.
If you're working or playing in wet environments, you can waterproof them (after conditioning) for an added layer of protection.
Nope! Not required. Some people like to use it at first. Some people don't.
Using Skidmore's Beeswax Waterproofer, of course. Start by warming up your gloves in the oven. This opens up the pores of the leather. Then rub beeswax all over the gloves. ALL OVER. Put them back in the oven to help the wax set into the leather. Repeat three times for wicked good coverage. Repeat the entire process anytime you need more waterproofage.
You bet. In fact your gloves prefer it. Just make sure to use the conditioner first, as the beeswax makes an impenetrable shield around the glove, and we want that conditioner to soak deep.
Honestly, we never do. The grit, gouges & patina are part of your story and will make you look really cool on the internet. If you are going to the opera and absolutely must clean them, use saddle soap. If you've just cleaned your saddle and are fresh out, you can use a bit of dish soap and water as a backup. Use an old (or your enemy's) toothbrush to clean seams and hard to reach spots.
Nothin but goat.
Our leather comes from North America. The majority (~85%) comes from the New England and Tri-State area while the balance (~15%) comes from Quebec and Ontario.
Quite warm. Depends where in the world you are and how warm your hands run.
Head on over to our Returns & Exchanges page and initiate a swaperoo.
Goat leather is a natural material that comes from goats. Like butterflies or fingerprints, no two goats are exactly alike. We do our best to standardize the color of the hides we use, there is an inevitable amount of variation among the color of hides. We celebrate that every pair of gloves we make is unique. Once you've worn them in, the patina, look and feel is entirely yours.
79% Merino wool, 19% nylon, 2% elastic.
hello@vermontglove.com
We feel your pain. Unfortunately, special offers are only redeemable during the promotion dates and can't be applied to past or future purchases outside of the promotion dates. Multiple special offers cannot be combined.
It depends on the dew point and your propensity to blood circulation. Generally speaking, the Jefflo Mitt is our warmest option. If you run cold, you can size up in a mitten, which creates a larger cavity to trap the heat coming off of your hand. If you run really cold, you can wear a glove liner inside the mitten. Our warmest glove will be the Tuttle.
Sorry to be the bearer of the bummer, but temp ratings don't mean anything unless it's suggesting the temp at which the material will freeze solid, or burn your hand through the material. As with most things, the temp at which your hand will be comfortable in a certain glove depends on your hands, your body, the ambient temp, air mosture content, wind factor and approximately millions of other factors. In conclusion, our gloves work really well in a wide range of temperatures. We wouldn't wear them on an arctic expedition though, to be perfectly honest.